Lara Williams, Columnist

I’m Vegetarian. But I Eat Deer.

Dinner?

Photographer: JUSTIN TALLIS/AFP

The deer are thriving. Given that hunting and loss of habitat almost drove Britain’s two native species – roe and red – to extinction in the late 18th century, you’d think ecologists and land managers would be celebrating. But as the UK population potentially exceeds 2 million, the highest level in over a millennium, the cervids are causing problems.

I typically don’t eat meat — partly for ethical and environmental reasons and partly because it’s simply what I’m used to — but I’ll happily tuck into a wild venison burger. That’s because it’s the one meat option which actually aids environmental aims.