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Pilsners Are Leading a Craft Beer Resurgence in Lager

Beermakers worn out on big flavors are swinging back to the “original pale lager.” Plus, a whistlestop tour of Brooklyn’s brewery corner.
Circa 1900, the Old Heidelberg Brewery in Chicago certainly pours some Pils.Source: Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone via Getty Images
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Greetings, Top Shelfers, ’tis I, Tony Rehagen, your humble lager lover, checking in on your Oktoberfestivities. If you’re like me, you’re not quite feeling the autumnal pull of those darker German Märzens and Dunkels just yet (and it’s still too warm for lederhosen). Fortunately, craft brewers all over the country are putting out Pilsners—a classic style of lager that’s light, complex and the perfect balance of summer hops and fall malt. But before I get into all that, here’s the news from around the beer world:

For the past decade or so, there’s been a running joke among craft beer professionals that each flip of the calendar will finally herald the Year of the Lager. The idea is that 20-plus years of bold flavors via hop-packed IPAs, decadent stouts and sugary sours have scorched drinkers’ palates to the point that they’re finally ready for the lighter, simpler and more sessionable style.