Early morning at Eddie Mair's cafe at the Peterhead Fish Market. The town is the UK’s biggest fishing port.

Early morning at Eddie Mair's cafe at the Peterhead Fish Market. The town is the UK’s biggest fishing port.

Photographer: Margaret Mitchell for Bloomberg

Farage Sets Sights on Election Upset in Brexit-Skeptical Scotland

The architect of Brexit has long struggled in a place that voted to remain in the EU. But his Reform UK party is gaining traction.

A couple of hours before the sun rises over Britain’s biggest fishing port, Eddie Mair is serving hot bacon rolls in the harsh fluorescent light of his café. He reckons there are about 115 people who work in the fish market, and he caters for more than a third of them every day.

“Sometimes it’s too early, they’re not ready to chat yet,” said Mair, wiping the counter as the morning rush eased just before the 7 a.m. fish auction. “They’ve got things on their mind.”