Roaming the vines at 8:29 a.m.
Photographer: Cayce Clifford for Bloomberg Businessweek
The Hectic Day in the Life of a Napa Winemaker During Harvest
There’s a lot riding the choices of grape guru Steve Matthiasson, who oversees 27 vineyards both for his own wines and high-profile clients
Known for his classically balanced wines and long commitment to organic production, Steve Matthiasson is a man in high demand. For his eponymous label, he farms a dozen small vineyards, including one at his winery in Napa’s Oak Knoll district. He consults on 15 more that belong to his eight high-profile clients—the largest sprawls across 400 acres.
His 27th harvest season stretches over seven weeks, and each day is a master class in multitasking. The key decision, he says, is always when to pick. That, more than anything else, determines the style of wine you can make.