In Defense of $23 Nonalcoholic Cocktails
At least the well-made ones.
The Pink Tango is a nonalcoholic offering at New York’s Stone & Soil.
Source: Stone & SoilIt happened a few years ago, but I still remember it clearly. I was seated at a white-tablecloth fine-dining restaurant in Brooklyn, the now-shuttered Clover Hill. In need of a break from booze, I ordered a nonalcoholic cocktail. After the server recited the drink’s composition — beet, oolong tea, tonka bean and a few other carefully articulated ingredients — I ordered it.
Moments later, a rocks glass arrived holding an oversize ice cube that occupied the bulk of the vessel. At best, there was room for three ounces of liquid splashing around. I looked at my husband in disbelief. I’ve consumed plenty of mocktails in my life, and this was the stingiest pour I’d ever encountered. Three sips later, my glass was empty, and I shifted to water.