Welcome to the Weird, Wonderful British Ritual of Panto

It was still early evening, but as Cinderella built to its climax, the atmosphere in the Hackney Empire theater took on a lawless, after-hours feel. A cast-led singalong of Laufey’s high-tempo 2023 hit “From the Start” was interrupted by a class of elementary schoolers gyrating up the aisle, teachers gesturing hopelessly at them to sit down. A cameo appearance by Santa Claus in the second act raised screams so piercing, I briefly had to cover my ears. Once the chimes of midnight struck and Cinders fled Prince Charming’s ball, the audience looked ready to storm the stage. “Girl, you need to go,” a 7-year-old sitting a few rows away yelled.

If you’ve never experienced a traditional British pantomime — especially during a sugar-stimulated midweek school matinee — you’re in for what can only be described as a culture shock. A Christmas-flavored family show that sees fairy-tale heroes in spangled tights do battle with cross-dressing villains, and food fights meld with political satire, panto is one of the UK’s most venerable theatrical institutions. Attending one is as much a festive ritual in the country as getting indigestion on Boxing Day or grumbling about the state of the National Health Service.