Nagamoto Brings Japanese Zen to Hong Kong Michelin Cluster

In a city that revels in the ostentatious as much as Hong Kong, On Lan Street in Central stands out. Just steps away from the cacophony of Queen’s Road, this quiet cul-de-sac is anything but a dead-end when it comes to dining. In just one building there are four different Michelin-starred establishments, including Mono, Arcane and Ryota Kappou Modern. I recently visited Nagamoto, a one-starred restaurant by chef Teruhiko Nagamoto, drawn by their seasonal cherry blossom theme and little risk of an earthquake.

Nagamoto goes to considerable lengths to make you feel you’ve left garish Hong Kong behind, right from the moment staff greet you in the dimly illuminated elevator lobby. Entering the restaurant is like stepping through a portal into a Japanese guest house, decked out in dark wood with minimalist design and subtle lighting. There are just 14 counter seats, making the cooking and the chef the main event. (The decor changes to fit the season, there was a sakura display during our visit.) Reinforcing the point, the staff communicate amongst themselves in whispers.