China’s Favorite Fiery Liquor Is Getting a Millennial Makeover

For centuries, baijiu has been a staple at celebrations in China. The fiery alcohol has aided diplomacy, as when Richard Nixon and Zhou Enlai raised a glass or two to toast the Sino-U.S. detente in the 1970s. And to this day a $390 bottle of Moutai, a preferred gift across the mainland, can still open a surprising number of doors.

But China’s potent national tipple, usually imbibed over long banquet meals, faces a challenge. The older generation, for health reasons, is consuming less of what’s broadly viewed as the booze of choice for men in their 40s and above. And younger Chinese don’t care much for it. At about 110 proof, the clear liquor distilled mostly from fermented sorghum is an acquired taste for many hipsters, who increasingly are likely to experiment with Western wines and cocktails.