Finally, a Nonalcoholic Beer That Tastes Like, Well, Beer

Just before noon at the O’Fallon Brewery O’Bar in Maryland Heights, Mo., the pub begins to fill with workers from nearby office parks. Scattered among the usual burgers and build-your-own flatbreads are more than a few pints of beer. This is a brewery, after all, in a suburb of St. Louis, the ancestral home of Anheuser-Busch.

A closer look at these midday libations, however, yields surprises. Among the standard lagers and India pale ales, the bar serves a Hellraiser dark amber to patrons who want to stay clear for the drive and alert for the afternoon—or just save a few calories. Although it looks and tastes like a craft ale, it contains barely any alcohol. The beer is one of four brews created in this building by the upstart WellBeing Brewing Co.