To Lure Wine Lovers, Sake Makers Learn It’s All About Rice

  • Brewers look to Bordeaux-like appellation for Japan sake
  • Exports surge for seventh year in row as domestic sales falter
Photographer: Shiho Fukada/Bloomberg

Brewery executive Kosuke Kuji brought his best sake to a New York booze showcase 16 years ago hoping to promote high-end Japanese rice wine to a new generation of sophisticated foreign drinkers. They were a little disappointed.

It wasn’t that sake from his Nanbu-Bijin brewery failed to live up to its rating back home as Junmai-Daiginjo, the name given to premium grade vintages. But for aficionados of traditional grape-based wines, the local appellation that produces the main ingredient can be almost as important as the final product -- think Napa Valley in California, Bordeaux in France, or Chianti in Italy.