Black Suits Back, Alright!

Experimental threads and new cuts make black suits cooler in summer.

When you think of buying a summer suit, the color black doesn’t immediately come to mind. “Black used to be reserved for funerals, formal evening wear, or perhaps a board meeting,” says Dan Rookwood, the U.S. editor of shopping site Mr Porter, where black tailoring from brands such as Ami and Boglioli is throwing the darkest of fabrics into a new light.

The idea popped up last summer, when Club Monaco made a handsome all-black seersucker suit, but it’s grown from there. The fabrics and details of the new options tend to be even more experimental: Theory is making a black summer suit with stretchy elastane called the New Suit for its nascent “technical” line; Stampd, a streetwear brand, sells a blazer with an angular notched lapel. Many makers choose linen, merino wool, or a summer-weight blend, materials that lend themselves to unstructured jackets, looser pants, and the overall casual silhouette that’s back in style—think ’80s Armani, but less billowy. Usually, the jackets are unlined, which makes them lighter weight—and comfortable—in hot weather.